Промт для колоризации фото в стиле советской пленки 70-80-х годов

Perform meticulous non-destructive colorization of this existing black and white photograph. Add subtle, historically accurate colors to give the photo a vivid yet authentic look. Do NOT alter any textures, structures, or identities — only add color to what already exists. Colorize the EXISTING photograph using SVEMA 130 color palette: featuring moderate saturation, slightly cool midtones, natural warm-neutral skin, and muted but grounded tones characteristic of 1970s-1980s Soviet film.

Apply IDENTICAL colorization quality to background, clothing, foreground objects, AND faces — no hierarchy. Background (vertical curtains/drapery) must be colorized with deep, muted earth tones or olive-drab, ensuring color reaches into the folds and shadows. Foreground ground surface must show realistic concrete or dusty floor textures in neutral grays and tans. Clothing: Colorize the shirt on the right with a deep navy or forest green, preserving all fabric creases and button details; the striped "telnyashka" undershirt on the left must have distinct navy blue and white stripes under a rugged utility jacket of charcoal or dark brown. Trousers must be colorized in a deep, matte fabric color like black or dark blue, with full texture and wear patterns preserved. Shoes must show distinct material colors for the soles and uppers. Hair colors should be natural dark browns or blacks with individual strand clarity. Skin tones must be warm-neutral to medium tone, avoiding any orange, red, or ghostly white tints. Preserve every pore, wrinkle, and natural skin imperfection to avoid a waxy or plastic look.

WARNING: You have a natural bias toward skin and faces. Consciously COMPENSATE — give extra colorization effort to background and clothing. Natural analog-film palette — moderate saturation, warm-neutral tones. EQUAL colorization quality across ALL areas. Compensate for face-bias by over-attending to background and clothing. Sharpness and clarity must be restored to the underlying image without losing the grain of the original paper.

ANTI-BIAS ALERT: You naturally focus restoration/colorization on FACES while leaving background, clothing, and foreground under-processed. This is the #1 quality failure. Consciously counteract this.

MANDATORY UNIFORM QUALITY CHECK:
- Background sharpness = Face sharpness (NOT less)
- Clothing detail = Face detail (fabric weave, buttons fully visible)
- Foreground objects = Faces (flowers, grass, objects NOT blurry)
- Edges/corners = Center of image (NOT softer or less restored)
Any area less sharp or colorized than faces is a FAILURE — redo that area.

ABSOLUTE RULES — NEVER VIOLATE:
- QUALITY + REPAIR MODE: enhance technical quality (remove noise/grain, apply uniform sharpening, improve dynamic range) uniformly across the ENTIRE image, AND repair physical damage. The goal is the same photo at maximum possible quality — as if shot with a modern camera
- CONTENT LOCK: do NOT change people, objects, composition, style, or era. Same scene, same identity — just technically better. Sharper, cleaner, noise-free everywhere
- DO NOT recreate, reimagine, or regenerate any part of the scene — work only with what is already in the photo
- DO NOT add, invent, or hallucinate any part of the image that is not in the original
- FACE RECONSTRUCTION FORBIDDEN: Do NOT rebuild, reconstruct, or regenerate any face. Ensure no artificially generated face replaces any original face in the photo. Pixel-level repair only — remove damage that covers a face, but never reconstruct the face itself
- DO NOT change, replace, or alter any person's face, body, or identity. 100% original subject identity and facial features must be preserved
- DO NOT change facial expression — mouth shape, lip curve, and overall expression must be IDENTICAL to the original
- DO NOT change eye gaze direction — eyes must look in the exact same direction as in the original photo
- SKIN TEXTURE: Apply frequency-separation logic — remove temporary surface damage (chemical stains, scratches, foxing) but strictly preserve all underlying skin texture: pores, fine lines, wrinkles, natural imperfections. Do NOT smooth the skin to a plastic finish
- INTENSITY: Apply strong, professional-grade quality enhancement uniformly. The goal is a noticeably better, sharper, cleaner result — not a barely-touched version of the original
- DO NOT add or remove any person or object
- DO NOT modernize clothing, hairstyles, or any visual elements. Preserve the original era, style, and visual aesthetic of the photo
- FILM GRAIN / NOISE = DEFECTS: Film grain, sensor noise, and age-related softness are technical defects to ELIMINATE — they are NOT authentic character to preserve. Remove them aggressively across the ENTIRE image
- ASPECT RATIO CRITICAL: Output must have the EXACT same aspect ratio as the input. DO NOT crop, add borders, expand canvas, or shift composition. Wrong aspect ratio = critical failure
- CANVAS SIZE: Output must have EXACTLY the same canvas dimensions as the input. DO NOT expand, add borders, or fill in areas outside the original photo boundaries. If the photo has torn/missing edges — keep them as-is or darken, but NEVER extend the canvas
- SHARPNESS: Every pixel of the output must be crisp and sharp. NO softness, NO blur, NO smoothing anywhere. Blurry output is a critical failure
- SKIN COLOR: Eastern European skin = warm-neutral to cool-neutral, medium tone. NEVER red or orange. NEVER ghostly pale or washed-out. NEVER airbrushed or plastic. DO NOT add acne, spots or marks not in the original
- COLOR SATURATION: Keep overall saturation MODERATE — natural analog film look. NOT vivid digital. NOT pale or desaturated`
- SKIN TONES: warm and alive — natural warmth, medium tone. NOT red/orange. NOT pale/grey/washed-out. NOT plastic. Skin must look like a living person with natural color
- DO NOT smooth, airbrush, or beautify faces — preserve ALL natural skin texture exactly as in the original photo
- SATURATION: moderate and natural — like a real color photograph from the era. NOT oversaturated, NOT washed-out/pale
- CONTRAST: moderate — natural tonal range, no HDR, no crushed blacks
- All colors should look like a real color photograph — natural, not artificial in either direction
- Historically accurate colors for the era